The End of Oud: Part 3


THE END OF OUD: Part 3

Mission Borneo: Progress Report

I. Eating Dust

Singapore. It’s here where we first heard the news that the oud world as we know it is at its end. Six months later, en route to Borneo, we stopped over in Singapore to find out what has come to pass since our last visit.

Courtesy of a long-time friend, we were given a peak at the private collections of the local wood tycoons. We got to see the most incredible pieces of Kyara from Vietnam and sinking-grade wood from Hainan, Burma, Borneo, Malaysia, and Papua. After more than two years, we even got to chew some Vietnamese Kinam again (that left our mouths numb for a good half an hour). They had everything, even a little bag with some Filipino wood. Everything except Thai, Cambodian, and Indian. ‘Take a good look,’ he said as he opened boxes containing nothing but Vietnamese Kyara, ‘this is the only place you’ll get to see this’.

Later that night, we went to his house where he showed us some of the things he keeps for himself. We were expecting to see more wood, the kind he sends off to China – but guess what? Instead of some crazy stash of Kyara or black sinking wood, he showed us his bead collections, his carvings and artifacts, bracelets and miniatures.

Not a single piece of raw wood! The same man who sold his wood off to China is buying back what they buy it for. We now understood that the reason the trade is so big in China– ‘lucky wood’ fever – is no joke. Our friend, Chinese himself, doesn’t just have one or two bracelets he keeps as mementos. He has cupboards full of ornaments carved from ‘lucky wood’. But it doesn’t end with luck. He brought over a small pouch with some more Vietnamese Kyara powder for us to chew on. He didn’t even want to hear about selling the pouch. He was keeping it as medicine for the most uncommon health conditions.

Bidding him farewell, the whole matter seemed more real than before. We heard much of the same story, only with a more gripping sense of urgency. One thing that had changed since our last visit was that some of those with the very rarest pieces of wood were now not even selling them to China anymore. In fact, nothing’s going anywhere. Aside from personal collections like beads and bracelets, traders are now holding on to the uncarved wood as well.

‘There’s nothing left, this is the end … we’re keeping these for later years,’ our friend remarked as he showed us his partners’ wood collection. He was flying out to Papua the next morning to meet the only person he still deals with in the region, to pick up the last of what he has. Thinking of it now, the same man had told us almost three years ago that this industry would not last for longer than another five years. He seems to have gotten it right on the dot.

II. Vintage Malaysian

In order to raise funds for upcoming organic distillations, we brought our entire supply of an incredible vintage Malaysian oil. We were hoping to release the oil publicly, but we knew that we’d most likely get it sold to the Taiwanese in one shot. And that’s exactly what happened. Not even 30 minutes went by after we arrived at the brokers’ before the whole batch was sold. I can still see Ensar’s painful grimace upon getting the news. His vintage Malaysian oud now belonged to someone in Taiwan. But there was no other way. We have a costly trip ahead of us.

While the greater Chinese market is almost exclusively for raw agarwood, Taiwan is after vintage oils as well. Our retired Taiwanese distiller (the man behind ouds like Borneo Kinam and Kalbar 3000) is held in high esteem, for which reason the Singapore brokers are all too eager for us to offer them our other vintage oils. They’d have them all sold to Taiwanese collectors before the day was over.

III. From Oud Oil to Crude Oil

Since our arrival in Borneo, we’ve met the government official who since 2005 has maintained contact with all the established hunters and distillers in western Borneo. From the time of the original survey on agarwood trade in the region, conducted in 2005, out of the 62 names only 10 have any kind of activity happening today.

Accompanying the official was a former big-wheel in the trade, with whom we discussed how far things have come. To sum up just how lucrative the trade has been for most in recent years… The man has completely retired from the oud business and is now in the gas and crude oil sector. And it’s not just him. Another of the original 62 with whom we met is into construction. Another into birds’ nests. Others into palm oil. Others into rubber. Others into fruit trees. The list goes on.

IV. Sulphur and Mercury

From the 10 people still in business, we were brought to the man with the highest level of activity. The only thing this person cared about could be summed up into two syllables: China. He has no oil operation. The only thing he does is buy any and all wood he can get his hands on from every corner of the island so he can sell it directly to China. We sat with him and spent hours talking about the trade, at the end of which he apologized for not being able to help us with any oil extraction ventures as his wood only had one destination written on it, and that destination was China.

Even so, upon examining his wood, we found specimens of Papuan gyrinops, Sumatran, West Borneo, East Borneo – basically all wood he could lay his hands on was piled into a single batch, from where it was subsequently divided according to their grading system, irrespective of origin. He repeatedly made it clear that 99% of the people he deals with don’t care about the details, so long as the general grade of the various species matches up. We were the 1% to whom it mattered.

When he’s not busy stock-piling what’s left in the wild, he takes part in a team of chemists and other scientists experimenting with inoculation methods. In this regard, we heard some rather disturbing things about certain chemicals (sulphur and mercury, to name only two) being used in plantations. We’re seeing an increased emphasis on haste and quantity, regardless of the side effects. Sustainable cultivation and human health are not top priorities.

V. Abandoned Distilleries

So far as distillation is concerned, the largest facility (owned by a major Gulf corporation) has not been run a single time since 2005 and has been on sale ever since, offering 10 large-capacity boilers. Still no takers. Reason: No wood.

When asked why abandoned distilleries are nothing strange in these parts, we were told that ‘the problem is not just the wood, it’s also the price.’ Because the China market emerged out of nowhere in no time, the demand for agarwood has become very one-dimensional. One thing that came from this is that the reality of agarwood’s scarcity was laid bare – overnight the trees vanished.

Consequently, many jumped at the void in the market by starting plantations. However, as we all know, agarwood cultivation isn’t a short-term game. To do things right, you need many years, many decades. Newcomers to the market, however, can’t afford to wait that long. A sense of urgency and excitement has given birth to a spur of scientific studies related to enhancing the growth of agarwood. So, even though there are concerted efforts to push cultivation efforts in the right direction, many are unable to comply with long-term goals and ideals. The result is a two-edged sword: quick fixes and illegal poaching.

VI. What the Newspapers Say

‘Efforts to conserve the state’s forests are stronger than ever,’ reads the latest government report on forestry and sustainable development. In our previous post, ‘The End of Oud, Continued,’ we noted Christopher Hoeth’s words:

‘Borneo is the last place where any wood remains,’ Christopher said. ‘But within the last six months alone I’ve seen over two thousand Vietnamese go there. Within six months, I assure you, not one single wild tree will be left standing in Borneo. They will clean out the entire island, just like they did Cambodia and Laos. And that will be that.’

What do we read in the newspapers today?

‘A 23-year-old Vietnamese man was sentenced to six years in jail for felling agarwood trees…’

‘Six Vietnamese were arrested when the state Anti-Smuggling Unit seized 51kg of agarwood during a raid on an apartment…’

‘Two Vietnamese nationals and a Thai have been arrested for the alleged smuggling of agarwood…’

Whether it’ll be Vietnamese poachers doing it, or if it’ll be at the hands of the locals themselves, we don’t see an alternative ending to this story.

 

 

Mission Borneo: A New Chapter for Artisanal Oud Oil

Ensar just arrived in the thick jungles of Borneo, exploring the island’s oud scene. Known for legendary Borneo oils like Borneo 3000 and Borneo Kinam, Ensar embarks on a project to produce the next generation of artisanal Borneo oud oils.

Join him on the journey. Visit www.oriscent.com and keep an eye on our facebook page - www.facebook.com/ensaroudoil - to see what Ensar’s up to.

 

 

Why I Buy Oriscent

Just thought I’d share a few photos with you that pretty much sum up why I will only deal with Oriscent.

This is a bottle of supposed “Top Shelf” Oud I had purchased some time ago from one of the so-called “Reputable” dealers here in the Gulf. Needless to say it has sat untouched since being blessed enough to start dealing with Oriscent.

The first photo shows the bottle as it has sat for some time, giving everything time to “settle”. The remaining photos show the gruesome picture of what lies inside once turning the bottle over. I don’t even want to think what some of that stuff might be. Though the pictures don’t show it very well, the bottom is actually a murky grey. You can’t even see through the clear glass due to the unknown sediment that has settled to the bottom of the bottle after sitting for so long, not to mention what those dark blotches might be.

Sure, it smelled pretty good when trying it in the shop but, as the pictures clearly show, that doesn’t mean it’s “pure”. I can’t tell you how happy I am to have the opportunity to deal with Oriscent for my Oud needs.

On another note, I tried the Oud Yusuf  toady and it was simply beautiful. Stayed with me all through the day continuing to tease me with hints of Cambodi fruitiness. It’s been a while, and I’ll have to go back just to check, but in some ways it reminded me a bit of the Purple Dervish. But while Purple Dervish leans more towards the blue/purple part of the fruit spectrum, Oud Yusuf seems to lean more towards the orange/yellow. At times like a caramel brown or golden honey scent. I can’t really explain it but the main thing is I simply loved it.

The Oud Yusuf had pretty much worn off by Maghrib time (I had put a single swipe on around 7:30 AM) with only a very subtle hint remaining from time to time, and so I decided to try Idrees…. WOW! It didn’t leave me for a moment throughout my salat nor for some time after that. This is an oud to use if you want to sit for a few hours and make dhikr, or just meditate. It completely engulfs you. Every, and I mean EVERY, breath is filled with a smooth, beautiful Hindi Assam scent for HOURS. Once you put it on, it simply will not let you go and there is no way to escape it … not that anyone who appreciates a good Assam oud would want to! This is one that will most likely be joining the Legends category soon and I’m glad I was able to add it to my collection.

I look forward to future discoveries as I’m sure I will continue to be impressed as well as blessed to be able to own and experience more pieces of the Artisinal Oud puzzle that is Oriscent. — Yousuf, UAE

 

Oud Yusuf

Natural perfumers have despaired of creating the scent of lilies. Lilacs are an even harder note to capture. Perhaps a hint of vanilla, with a touch of rose, some orris butter, violet leaves in a sandalwood base is as close as we get. Oud Yusuf smells so much like these sumptuous florals you’d think it was distilled from lilacs’ and lilies’ petals rather than oud wood.

The seductive effect of the florals is punctuated by subtle honeydew and an ever present apricot that follows the scent all the way down to its immaculate powdered woody finish.

Perhaps the lightest oud you can wear, Oud Yusuf also ranks as the most flawless orchestration of scent notes I have ever encountered in single origin oud oil. Subtler than the finest Borneos’ berried craze, it combines all the succulent fruit notes you crave in a Borneo in its unique Cambodian style, which makes it for me absolutely irresistible.

Smelling ahead to its full maturation a year or two down the line, I find myself with an oil I cherish every bit as much as Borneo 3000, and one that I apply more cravingly than any other. Four to five applications a day are the norm at the time of writing this.

What makes Oud Yusuf even more special is that it was distilled from 100% organic agarwood trees, that are harvested and maintained in the most ethical way possible.

Our artisan owns a small patch of forest with just 2,000 aquilaria crassna trees which he never cuts down. Each morning, you see him walking down the forest path with his dog behind him, chisel in hand, looking for the most infected trunks.

With a big smile on his face, you see him patiently picking at each trunk, chiseling out only brown shavings of resinated heartwood, mindful as he spares the uninfected portions so the tree can continue to grow and yield more agarwood.

The maximum amount of raw oud wood he can harvest in one day is ten kilograms. The maximum amount of oil he can produce in one month is twenty tolas. But his twenty tolas are dearer to me than twenty kilos of thoughtlessly harvested oud oil.

Because of the care he puts in every step of the distillation process, from the precise selection of the most infected heartwood, to the grinding, soaking and cooking of his oud oil, he is able to achieve a level of quality, beauty and sheer perfection in his oud no other distiller can match. And the lilacs and the lilies, the honeydew and the apricot notes in his oud all attest to his mastery and love of this craft.

3 grams organic Oud oil in a plain glass bottle. Take a deep breath!